Marin Milan Winery

For centuries, Kaštela has been renowned as a wine-producing destination, reaching its peak of industrial production during the era of Dalmacijavino. Many Kaštela families used to sell their grapes to this company for processing. One such family is the Milan family, whose roots in winemaking run deep, with young Marin Milan working in the family vineyard beneath Veliki Bijać since his early days.

“No one asked me if I wanted to do this; I was just told to go to the field,” Marin Milan shares his first encounter with viticulture. This was a common practice for all old Dalmatian families involved in winemaking, as, before mechanization, many hands were needed to tend to the vines. However, such a lifelong connection with the vine shapes a person, teaching them to “communicate” with their vineyard through their work.

As our host puts it, “Wine is made in the vineyard, and in the vineyard, you have to be there every day!” Marin indeed lives by this principle, visiting his 3,000 Crljenak vines and 1,000 Pošip vines daily.

Production Process

As seen in old black-and-white pictures on the winery’s wall, the Milan family has been engaged in viticulture since Marin’s great-grandfather’s time. According to Marin, tourists are often shocked when they see old pictures of Crljenak production, specifically when they see “suvica” (dried grapes), as they think wine is only made from table grapes, which are much juicier than what is needed for their wine production method. “Suvica” refers to grapes allowed to dry, either on the vine or after being picked. Milan Winery follows a natural and traditional method, letting the grapes dry a bit longer on the vine before harvesting. This method requires knowledge and years of experience, as a small oversight can lead to the failure of the entire harvest. Marin confidently states, “I know exactly when to harvest; if I don’t pick it within two days, it’s over!”

Wines

Despite the traditional method’s initial shock due to its high alcohol content (between 15-16.5%, depending on the year), Marin explains that when Crljenak grows next to Plavac, Crljenak reaches a graduation of 23 while Plavac can’t even reach 18. Combining this with the traditional harvesting method, Milan sacrifices quantity for quality. Marin typically allows maceration for about 7-10 days, not too long, according to his experience, just enough to get it right. His Crljenak has a soft, full taste, aromatic yet simple enough to slide down perfectly with the first sip, whether enjoyed during a stroll through the vineyard or paired with sausages and a platter in the shade of the host’s cellar. It’s challenging to compare it to anything else, making it truly one of the crowns of Kaštela’s Crljenak. Although he once had Plavac in his vineyards, Marin explains, “Plavac suffers; it’s hard to get more than decent wine out of it.” And Marin is not satisfied with just decent wine, evident from the first tasting of his assortment.

While Marin takes special pride in his Crljenak, he also produces white wine, specifically Pošip, with an alcohol content of about 13%. Pošip is another well-adapted grape variety to the Kaštela region. Marin says, “There’s much more work with white wine, and it’s not appreciated as much as red.” However, this doesn’t stop him from producing all the raw materials himself, proudly stating, “I don’t buy grapes; everything is mine.” This is evident in a casual glance at Marin’s vineyards and Crljenak and Pošip vines. His Pošip, like his Crljenak, leaves a great impression. Light and drinkable, with citrus aromas and a fresh taste, it’s perfect for a light fish dinner in one of the numerous restaurants serving it.

Business Plans and Future

Marin is also active on the business front, emphasizing that all vineyard owners today must be both producers and sellers. Depending on a single income source is not advisable. The winery itself produces more than 3,500 bottles of Crljenak and Pošip, selling directly from the winery to customers and through numerous restaurants in Split and Dalmatia. It’s challenging to find an iconic Split restaurant where Marin doesn’t have an active wine sale. Some of the notable names include Zona, No Stress, Kadena, Intrada, Noir, to name just a few.

Finally, we ask him how his family views his passion for making great wine. As he says, “My three daughters attack me for working too much, but they always help me during the harvest, and the young ones are interested in wine.” This is great news for all wine enthusiasts, indicating that the future of this winery is in good hands, and the Milans will continue tending to their vineyard and offering their excellent Crljenak for generations to come.