Generally, we would say that predominantly white grape varieties are grown in Hilly Croatia. However, there’s much more diversity to it. Here, you’ll find top-notch white wine varieties such as Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Blanc, Chardonnay, Sylvaner, Graševina, and Yellow Muscat, as well as old autochthonous varieties like Škrlet from Moslavina, Pušipel from Međimurje, or Kraljevina. There are also lesser-known varieties like Sokol, Velika Belina, Belina Smudna, and Crnine Kasne. They are yet to be discovered, both in Croatia and beyond its borders.

The region is also called the Croatian Champagne; Plešivica nurtures excellent sparkling wines and labels, which deserve a bit more attention. Wine connoisseurs will flock to Hilly Croatia for the best Portugieser. But let’s take it step by step.

In order for the wines of this region to reach the global market and compete more seriously, synergy among winemakers was necessary. After all, we’re talking about family farms that couldn’t achieve much on their own. United in the same mission, they become stronger. The Association of Winemakers and Viticulturists ‘Hilly Croatia’ was founded on July 9, 2019. It brings together 64 founders from the Bjelovar-Bilogora County, the City of Zagreb, the Karlovac County, the Koprivnica-Križevci County, the Krapina-Zagorje County, the Međimurje County, the Sisak-Moslavina County, the Varaždin County, and the Zagreb County.

The association’s aim is to improve presentations and promotions and create a brand that this region has lacked. Associations such as Graševina Croatica, Wine of Dalmatia, and Vinistra have already acquired the status of regional organizations. The only thing missing was the Association of Hilly Croatia to open up possibilities for developing a wine industry strategy in each region, following the model of Italian or French region development. Our wines are just as good, if not better, so why shouldn’t we be just as good in marketing?

The whole village drinks white.​

Although covering only 20% of all Croatian vineyards, hilly Croatia is a serious wine region. The moderately continental climate of hilly Croatia creates ideal conditions for excellent white wines. Just as Dalmatia is soulful for Plavac, Babic, and Merlot, hilly Croatia is a wonderful mother to Graševina, Pinot Gris and Blanc, Riesling, and Chardonnay. The region also has its indigenous varieties, unfortunately less known throughout Croatia – such as Sokol, Velika Belina, Belina Smudna, and Crnina Kasna.

Of over 120 indigenous grape varieties in Croatia, Škrlet was the first variety to undergo clone selection, from which we now have quality planting material. It requires much less care than some of the world-renowned varieties that are naturalized here. The wine is full, fresh, with a pronounced, gentle, unobtrusive specific variety aroma. That’s why this variety is considered a variety of the future, more planted, more studied.

You will recognize wines from hilly Croatia by their moderate alcohol content, moderate acidity. These are, in layman’s terms, fresh and drinkable wines, with beautiful floral, fruity, and spicy aromas. Locals like to say they produce wines for every day. The rest of Croatia likes to say that wines there are ‘tame’.

90% of wine producers are not large wineries but family farms. Their main mission is to remain domestic, relaxed, and top quality. If you happen to wander into one of the yards of a family vineyard, you will be hosted like a king.

Small production ensures (as in everything) good quality, immediate impression, and a friendly spirit. This region plays this card when it comes to tourism. Every family farm that produces wine, wine works for itself. Then for the family, the village, and then the visitors. Some are already on the wine maps of this region as a tourist destination. And that’s exactly what distinguishes this region from the southern ones.

Although most will serve Sauvignon and Muscat, another variety makes this region recognizable – and that’s Riesling. Right behind it is Portugizac – a variety that produces young and cheerful wines that will not (and should not) wait for the next spring. Members of the world jet set from the early 20th century – Charlie Chaplin and Isadora Duncan – returned for a glass of good Portugizac.

We’re talking about the coldest wine region in Croatia, so even wine and grapes must count on a high level of acidity. A high level of acidity means excellent sweet wine, so ice harvests and select harvests of dried berries that come from these parts are considered the best in Croatia. What the rush of sun is to the slopes of Dalmatian island vineyards, ice is to the picturesque vineyards of the hills. Each area takes the best from nature. Try all the richness of Plešivica winemakers and sparkling wines in top wineries like Jagunić, Kolarić, Kurtalj, and Ivančić.

Small region, great power

Sauvignons asserted themselves as one of the trademarks of the Međimurje wine scene about thirty years ago. Sauvignons still rank among the top Croatian producers of white wines, and they can be found in all the positions of Hilly Croatia.

Winemakers of Hilly Croatia have placed themselves in the category of fresh, clean wines with higher acidity. Before it became a trend even in Europe, Hilly Croatia began implementing the principles of biodynamics and clean and fresh stylization of wines. Winemakers engage in winemaking not as a hobby but as a way of life, which ultimately must be reflected in the final product. There isn’t a wine festival or exhibition where at least one award doesn’t go to Hilly Croatia.

Although white wines prevail, black varieties also thrive here – Pinot Noir and Frankovka. Much gentler than, for example, Dalmatian whites and reds, international varieties are grown in all the vineyards of Hilly Croatia, while local varieties are distributed across wine positions.

Škrlet is cultivated exclusively in Moslavina, Kraljevina grows throughout Prigorje. Winemakers of Hilly Croatia employ conventional cultivation methods, but biodynamics is becoming increasingly common.

Biodynamic wine originates from biodynamic agriculture. Through biodynamic agriculture, we believe that our plants express themselves best. Thanks to careful observation of the astrological influences on plants and the earth, we work to restore them to their proper interconnectedness. In the vineyard, and indeed throughout the entire company, starting from the limited and respected use of tractors to the planting of green manure, the use of chemical pesticides is prohibited, ensuring the reestablishment of true connections between the sky and the earth.

Preparations that promote the processes of humus formation and stimulate the function of light and warmth are used. Instead of fighting against diseases, we activate mechanisms to create health, nullifying the logic of modern industrial agriculture.

When it comes to production itself, in this region, there are no wineries with large-scale production like in Slavonia and the Danube region. These are family cellars with production up to 100,000 liters per year.

On the hillsides right next to the vineyards, in cellars and weekend houses with wine cellars, some of the best wines in Croatia are produced. It is a young region with great potential. It listens to the market but also nurtures tradition. The region is attracting more and more attention, both from domestic consumers and from abroad. Although there are still no recognized regulations at the European level that would precisely define biodynamic or organic wine, it is nice to know that more and more winemakers in this region are turning to such agriculture. In any case, it is a region that is yet to show its true strength.

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