Enjoying a glass of wine, we often get caught up in the flavors and forget about the story behind each sip, and among all wine stories, one of the most fascinating is the story of Zinfandel. Today, it’s one of the most recognizable wine varieties in the world, and we often forget that its journey began in the Dalmatian vineyards hidden among dozens of other varieties, while winemakers unknowingly preserved this oenological and biological treasure through countless generations. Today, it is known that Zinfandel is actually Tribidrag/Pribidrag/Crljenak, and these varieties are among the jewels of the wine world.
The history of Tribidrag in Croatia
The story of Zinfandel begins long before its discovery and rise to its current status. Viticulture itself is a specific skill because the final product largely reflects its environment in taste, and caring for the fruit is as important as the environment itself. For this reason, people prefer the flavors of the Mediterranean and warmth in their mouths, making wines from such regions highly prized not only because of the environment but also because of the climate in their taste.
Zinfandel as such begins its story in the Dalmatian vineyards. It is known that the area along the Croatian coast has been suitable for the quality cultivation of numerous Mediterranean species, including grapevines, for millennia. The Dalmatian region was highly esteemed in antiquity as suitable for viticultural culture, which was one of the main reasons for the first Greek and Roman colonies in our area. This tradition continued with the arrival of the Croats, who absorbed much of the culture of the indigenous population and merged it into what we have today. Viticulture in Hvar, Šolta, Split, and Kaštela had a significant influence not only on viticultural culture but also on the cultural development of our literary and social circles.
For instance, Petar Hektorović, Marko Marulić, and Hanibal Lucić all cultivated Tribidrag and sold red wine in Venice, making them renowned merchants and vintners. This finally enabled them to engage in literature and publish many of their works through financial gain, as well as inspiration from consuming such high-quality wine.
The works of these exceptional authors have fortunately survived to a large extent, but their favorite wine variety, Tribidrag, endured significant difficulties from their lives in the 16th century until its rediscovery and resurgence in the 19th and 20th centuries. The harsh conditions during the battles with the Ottomans led to vineyards being frequently set on fire as part of wartime tactics, resulting in numerous vineyards being burned and destroyed over the centuries.
Various samples of Tribidrag were transplanted to smaller vineyards in new areas, and the names of the wine were adapted and changed, as seen from the names Crljenak, Tribidrag, and Pribidrag within just a few kilometers and decades of difference. Ironically, while the variety survived, its name did not, and in such a form, Tribidrag ended up in the laboratory of a Viennese botanist in the early 1830s. The old Habsburg Monarchy had just incorporated Dalmatia from the Venetians, and they were discovering numerous things about the new/old territory, including various top-quality wine varieties.
Because of the diverse naming, these varieties arrived in various forms to botanists. Also, these varieties migrated with the population, and it is not impossible that Croats fleeing from the Turks carried these varieties with them and cultivated them wherever they could.
However it may be, our Tribidrag/Crljenak arrived in America directly from the imperial palace in Vienna to the botanist George Gibbs. Namely, he misclassified it as Zinfandel, a completely different variety, but due to the rapid growth of Crljenak in the USA, it became synonymous with Zinfandel and actually adopted that classification in today’s largest wine market in the world.
Zinfandel was so popular that in the early 19th century it was recommended by medical staff as an aid in recovery, and it’s unclear to us at CroatianWineries.com why this is not a common practice today. However, the prevalence in the New World on the East Coast was limited by one important factor: vineyard owners believed it was an Austrian variety and, accordingly, suitable for the colder conditions of the East Coast, unaware that due to the incorrect classification, it is actually a Mediterranean variety ideal for warmer and more pleasant weather conditions.
As the United States expanded to the east, farmers went with them, but most of them went there in search of gold without realizing that they carried real treasure in their pockets. Some of the botanists who went east, like Frederick W. Macandray, took Zinfandel with them and planted it. They soon discovered that the warm Californian climate was perfect for such a grape. By the end of the century, there were some uncertainties about the name and origin, but Zinfandel became one of the most widespread varieties in California by the end of the 19th century and remained one of the most widespread varieties in California until Prohibition.
During this period, we witness the divergence and loss of the origin of Zinfandel due to several factors. Namely, Zinfandel gained popularity in the USA under its new name, but it was still somewhat prevalent in Croatia under various names. As we exported wine varieties to the New World, new problems arose for plants in the Old World because some diseases, such as downy mildew, crossed from America back to Europe, causing significant damage to monoculture vineyards across the old continent, including Croatia.
As a protection measure, local vine growers developed a system where they planted dozens, if not hundreds, of varieties in their vineyards. Although they mostly knew which varieties they were, over time, the names merged and further changed. Thus, the late 19th and early 20th centuries were the best periods for Zinfandel but the worst for Crljenak for several reasons. Alongside these difficulties in the original homeland of Zinfandel, new challenges arose in the form of Prohibition in the new market in the USA. Although viticulture was not prohibited, quantity became the most important factor, leading to numerous Zinfandel plantations being replaced by more productive but less quality varieties.
After the end of the Prohibition era in the 1930s, a new period of renaissance for Zinfandel began in the USA, but in a new form, as rosé or classified as white wine. In our circles, this tradition survived in the form of “opol,” where black wine, after a shorter fermentation period, is left in its reddish, sweeter form. This type of “opol,” or incorrectly termed “rosé” in the West, has a higher alcohol percentage and a more pleasant taste, making it suitable for drinking. Today, this type occupies an impressive 10% of the American white wine market by volume and is one of the most popular white wines in this category. Black Zinfandel is also sold but is not as popular as its “opol” variant.
Origin Determination
What everyone agreed upon was that Zinfandel is an excellent grape variety for producing great wines, but a major point of contention remained regarding the origin of Zinfandel itself. Due to the confusion surrounding its name, the exact origin couldn’t be determined, leading numerous scientists and oenologists to embark on a quest worldwide to find the source of this popular wine. The first clues were found in the taste and success of the variety. Given the prevalence of Zinfandel in Mediterranean climates, the search began for similar wines in similar regions.
One of the first botanists to investigate this was August Gofeen, who, during a visit to Italy, drew a connection between Primitivo from the southern regions of Italy and Zinfandel. However, numerous Croatian experts and renowned winemakers, such as the legendary Miljenko Grgić, were convinced that Zinfandel originated in Croatia and embarked on a serious quest for the truth.
Of course, this search was not only about biological and scientific accuracy but the ultimate goal was also to put Croatian viticulture on the world map and build a brand and recognizability akin to Italian or French varieties, whose value increases through association with similar varieties grown in other countries. The first clue led them on the right path; Grgić and other experts were convinced that Plavac Mali was actually Zinfandel, and the first trips of American experts indeed led to the conclusion that Plavac Mali and Zinfandel were related but not the same.
Plavac Mali originated from a cross between Crljenak and Dobričić, but it was determined that one genetic code was indeed there. Croatian scientists decided that a multidisciplinary approach was needed to get to the heart of this answer and confirm the Croatian, rather than Italian, origin of this top-notch wine. The main actors in this endeavor were Dr. Nenad Malenica from the Faculty of Science, Dr. Ivan Pejić, Dr. Edi Maletić from the Faculty of Agriculture in Zagreb, as well as Amroz Tudor from the Conservation Institute and Joško Belimarić from the Institute of History in Split. Such a broad range of experts from various fields enabled a deeper search for the origin.
By going through old records, it was established that Tribidrag was one of the potential old names for this once highly popular variety. As it disappeared in a sea of different varieties due to downy mildew, it was presumed that certain local versions from previous growing areas remained in vineyards to this day. The first suspicion fell on the Pribidrag type in Omiš, then on Crljenak in Kaštela, and on Šolta. Through the examination of Stjepan Bulić’s herbarium from 1901, a dried Tribidrag leaf was found, which, after analysis, confirmed that Tribidrag was indeed Zinfandel.
However, this was only half the task because there was still the task of finding vines that are modern variations of Tribidrag and finding out what they are called. After tireless searching, the scientific team found 9 vines in Ivica Radunić’s old vineyard in Kaštela in 2001, out of several thousand vines, and it was established that this was actually Kaštela Crljenak in its local form and name. Genetic testing confirmed that Zinfandel and Primitivo are descendants of Crljenak/Pribidrag/Tribidrag.
Zinfandel today
After this discovery, Zinfandel was classified under the name Zinfandel/Primitivo/Crljenak, and that classification remains to this day. The real challenge was to capitalize on this and spread this variety. Transplanting began immediately, and numerous vineyards started to flourish. A reverse process was initiated where today a significant number of vineyards are replacing other lower-quality grape varieties with domestic high-quality Crljenak. Of course, this blend of premium grapes with their natural source yields some incredible results, and the Crljenak from the vineyards of Kaštela are exceptionally high-quality and praised, with the production of rosé from this variety becoming increasingly widespread. Interestingly, our winemakers have remained faithful to the original recipe of Crljenak and prefer to produce it as a robust red wine, contrary to the widespread practices in the new world where it is primarily used for white wine.
One of the challenges that arose for our winemakers is how to brand this discovered connection. Adopting the name Zinfandel might be the most profitable in terms of name recognition, but it would lose its uniqueness and original character.
This is the solution chosen by our renowned winemaker Miljenko Grgić from California, who is largely responsible for uncovering the Croatian connection of Zinfandel. He continued to popularize this variety and lobby for it to be associated with Croatia and our winemaking tradition, and today some of the most esteemed Zinfandels are indeed Grgić’s from the Napa Valley. “Tribidrag” could perhaps be a unifying name, but the problem is that it has fallen out of common use. New names like Crljenak Kaštelanski and Pribidrag are geographically specific and may be somewhat overspecific due to the presence of palatal, making it difficult to determine what is best at this moment. However, it is undeniable that this variety, in whatever name, is now experiencing increasing production and popularity.
Over 20 wineries produce Crljenak wine in Croatia, and a good portion of them are concentrated in the natural habitats of this grape variety, which is a good indicator for the future of this variety and the increasing availability of quality wines for everyday use. An interesting method of producing Crljenak wine, as seen at the Milan winery in Kaštela, involves making wine from dried grapes, known as “suvica,” which naturally dry on the vine before being harvested. This delicate production method yields incredible results, producing strong and full-bodied red wine. Of course, such a method requires extensive knowledge and presence in the vineyard, as even the slightest mistake can lead to the failure of a significant portion of the harvest or the wine itself.
It’s fascinating to observe how wine consciously and unconsciously evolves and spreads in a particular area. Through the Zinfandel story, we in Croatia witnessed an incredible detective story where traces were sought even centuries back. The dedication of all members of the Croatian wine scene and academic community has led to an incredible result for Croatian winemaking.
Aside from the excellent Crljenaks we have the opportunity to enjoy, Croatian wineries with such recognitions are starting to acquire global varieties, something well-branded wine powerhouses like France and Italy have been doing for centuries. The advantage for the French and Italians was that part of their wines retained their original names due to their wide dissemination, while Zinfandel was classified differently, making the initial association more challenging. However, what matters here is not Zinfandel per se but the confirmation that Croatian vineyards have hidden gems in their old overgrown vineyards and that potentially there are numerous other varieties ready for expansion into domestic and global markets!
But even if we don’t discover any new noteworthy variety, the fact that, thanks to this incredible detective story, we can enjoy Kaštela’s Crljenak is a sufficient result to raise a toast to everyone involved in making it possible.
Cheers!