For all true wine lovers, the Drniš area is known for its exceptionally fertile and rich vineyards. These areas were among the first modernized vineyards and plantations in what is now Croatia. Millions of vines were planted not only in the Petrovo field but also in the wider Drniš surroundings. However, this is not coincidental, as this area has been known for centuries as a rich wine-producing region.

Our journey led us to the beautiful small village north of Drniš, Oklaj. On the way to Oklaj, the vineyard richness of this area is evident as we observe old and new vineyard plantations on both sides of the road leading to Oklaj. Here, we met with a well-known winemaker from this area, Ivica Džapo, to acquaint us with the charms of this region.

About the Host

Passing through vineyards, we enter Oklaj, where on the right side, we see the property of Ivica Džapo. Although navigation misguides us, our experienced eyes cannot miss the property of a true winemaker. Interested in the numerous vineyards we saw along the way, we ask our host about the history of this area, and he readily responds. “In the 1930s, there were over 2 million grapevines planted in the area of the Oklaj village alone. At that time, my family, like many others, lived off the sale of wine and rakija.”

The data Ivica provides are incredible but not surprising. The surrounding landscape reveals beautiful flat fields and soil that is just rocky enough to ensure the permeability of the area and fertile enough to ensure high yields. The geographical position of Oklaj in the interior of Dalmatian Zagora allows it to avoid extreme heat while still being sufficiently southern to retain Mediterranean warmth and protect the vines from the harshest cold spells. This symbiosis allows for a truly wide range of suitable grape varieties for this area, from rich reds to fruitful and drinkable whites.

“When I was studying economics, I looked forward most to going home for the harvest and working around wine, and I continued to do so after getting a job,” Ivica tells us. “Everyone told me I was crazy, but the vine has always been my love, just as it was the love of my grandfathers.” At that time, the Oklaj area was dotted with small vineyard owners, and the proximity to Dalmacijavino guaranteed the purchase every year regardless of quantity. This led to numerous vineyard owners having huge plantations without much fear because they knew they had a large and select buyer relatively nearby. “In the old days, my grandfather sold rakija to make a living and grew wine for pleasure. With the arrival of Dalmacijavino, grape cultivation and wine production significantly replaced rakija as the main source of income for our vineyard owners,” Ivica tells us, recounting not only his winery’s story but also that of many families in the surrounding area.

The beginning of the Homeland War left severe consequences on these areas where significant battles were fought, and numerous people were expelled from their homes, including our host, Ivica Džapo. However, in his recounting of the history of this winery, this is just a footnote for him, and he emphasizes, “Upon returning to this area in 1995, we didn’t hesitate for a moment. We immediately rebuilt the old winery, ordered new barrels, and continued where we left off!” Ivica tells us enthusiastically. Of course, this was extremely challenging not only for Ivica but also for many other winemakers.

He tells us that his house was completely burned down, along with all the old Slavonian oak barrels. “The ashes were up to our waists when we walked among the ruins; all the old machinery and barrels were destroyed and burned, but on the other hand, it forced us to modernize faster than some others,” Ivica tells us. This modernization is also evident because when we enter the wine storage area, we see huge stainless steel barrels with the most modern sensors, as well as numerous wooden barrels.

Winery Today

Post-war reconstruction led to some changes for vineyard owners in the area. The first change was a return to wine production and sales, as opposed to the previous focus on grape production. Ivica quickly adapted to this familiar family business. He produces about 30-40 thousand liters of wine annually, and everything he intends to sell, he sells, while the rest is archived and prepared for wine lovers and passers-by like us from croatianwineries.com. Through our tour, where he pours us his wine directly from the barrels, we taste all the delicacies of the Drniš region and truly enjoy it.

Debit and Maraština are well-known white grape varieties of the Drniš region and are truly special wines. Extremely popular in restaurants during the summer months, these varieties are among those that put Croatia on the map for quality varieties to enjoy every day with lunch. Our host also cultivates foreign varieties such as Chardonnay due to the recognizability of the name and compatibility with the climate and indigenous varieties. These combinations also leave us amazed with their drinkability and quality, and we truly enjoy the interesting combinations presented by Ivica.

For all lovers of Dalmatian red wine, Ivica is also ready, and like every true Drniš winemaker, he has top-notch Lasin and Merlot. We enjoy various flavors and vintages, and it is clear to us that Ivica has no problem selling all the wine he produces.

For all lovers of Dalmatian red wine, Ivica is also prepared, and like every true Drniš winemaker, he has excellent Lasin and Merlot. We enjoy various flavors and vintages, and it’s clear to us that Ivica has no problem selling all the wine he produces.

However, we’re curious, as always, why this winery isn’t more renowned and well-known? As Ivica tells us, there are numerous problems, and one of them is the cultural shift. “Most family farm owners today are people over 60, while many young people work office jobs where they work 10 hours a day, just for someone else,” Ivica tells us.

This indicates a deeper issue in today’s culture where there’s a fear of agriculture among people and misplaced priorities, which are contradictory to the freedom associated with vineyard cultivation and winemaking. Although we’re all supposedly more flexible, today it’s less common culturally to take “days off” for agricultural work, whereas it used to be understood that all companies would pause in September and October to harvest grapes and olives.

Apart from the change in customs, there have been specific environments, as Ivica explains: “My generation was largely averse to agriculture, and a good number of people didn’t pass on their knowledge and passion to younger generations. Today, I see interest, but due to the lack of knowledge and continuity, it’s becoming increasingly difficult for young people to get into winemaking, even for their own needs.”

However, as we drink our host’s wine, we’re not afraid for the future of this area. Ivica is determined, regardless of trends, to continue modernizing and expanding his winery, and we warmly recommend all our readers to treat themselves to a trip to Oklaj and get to know the beauties of this region.